Banchan: the Story of the Korean Side Dish

South Korea is roughly the size of Indiana (with 7.5 times its total population), and the 27th most populated country as of the 2016 census (one of the top 10 most populated cities is its capital, Seoul, hovering around 10 million and counting). It is divided into nine provinces and seven metropolitan cities, creating diverse dialects and regional cuisine. For a country that has only recently experienced a culinary boom stateside, there is a deep, rich history beyond the bevy of infamous green soju bottles and all-you-can-eat barbecue (which is a Westernized concept, by the way, since quality meat was, and still is, a premium item). And while Koreatown is one of the most densely packed districts within Los Angeles County, with more retail signage written in Korean Hangul and waves of Korean brands opening U.S. locations every day, the vastness of Korean cuisine is still unbeknownst to many locally.

Korean Hangul. | Photo: Courtesy of Antonio Diaz

Preview Ep. 5, Banchan: Korean Food Beyond BBQ

Similar to Seoul itself, there are countless hidden gems and small businesses in every corner, and many families have planted roots and stayed in operation since the 80s and 90s. Through the turbulent Los Angeles riots and the rebuilding of communities, Korean immigrants have persevered and made an impact in shaping Los Angeles culture between Vermont and Crenshaw, from Beverly down to Olympic. Los Angeles has been a home away from home for many Koreans, and stylistic interpretations such as L.A. Galbi (a specific cut of short ribs) are now popular in Seoul as well.

Beyond the flashy 24-hour caf s and KBBQ restaurants lies an underbelly of true regional cuisine, ranging from the traditional North Korean influences behind cold nengmyun noodles and handmade mandoo dumplings, to the oceanic reverence in eondaegu jorim (braised black cod), bajirak kalgooksu (little neck clams with hand-cut noodles), and jeonbokjook (fresh abalone congee). And there are plenty of soups and stews for all seasons - think samgyetang (Cornish hen stuffed with glutinous rice, ginseng, chestnut, dates, garlic), yukgyejang (spicy shredded brisket with bean sprouts, scallions, onions), and cheonggukjang (fermented soy bean stew) - which are traditionally consumed during hot summers.

And let us not forget janchi, the traditional feast cuisine when grandmothers, mothers, aunts and sisters can really show off their skills. The likes of beautiful jeon (thin, savory pancakes made of seafood, mountainous greens or potato), a colorful array of banchan (small side dishes accompanied in every meal), and dduk (beloved rice cakes, often earthy and lightly sweet) decorate a family-style table setting.

Family-style table setting. | Photo: Courtesy of Antonio Diaz

Regionality and cultural tradition play large factors in what Koreans eat, how the food is prepared, and when it is consumed. But one thing is clear: Korean cuisine is, by definition, true family-style. It's not heaps of food like a medieval buffet; rather, a communal gathering and sharing of entrees and sides, serving elders first, and refilling small plates and empty glasses with a sense of innate hospitality. It is a universal commonality that all ethnic cultures express history, tradition and celebration through food, and I dare say that every L.A. resident who has driven through K-Town has experienced it in one shape or form. That hospitality is represented by many traditions, but perhaps most evidently through the customary banchan service.

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Banchan is an important part of Korean cuisine, from the most humble, simple dinner made at home to a full spread seen at janchi ceremonial celebrations and royal court cuisine. It is absolutely indispensable and always - always - accompanies any and every meal. Even pubs and street food stalls will offer at least one or two small banchans because it is a definitive part of Korean cuisine. The larger the variety, the more it showcases a quality of care, service and economic stability.

Since Korea is located between mountainous terrains and a peninsula surrounded by three seas, it has a highly seasonal cuisine with a heavy focus on seafood, grains and vegetables (meat became more popular and accessible post-Mongol invasion and later with 19th century world trade). Historically, the strictly vegetarian Buddhist diet dictated much of the Goryeo dynasty (10th to 14th centuries), and practices of fermentation and pickling were seen as early as the prehistoric Three Kingdoms era. To this day, four full seasons are enjoyed in Korea, and it is natural for people to cook and eat based on the time of year (New Year, Lunar New Year and Chuseok Thanksgiving during autumn harvest are most significant).

The best way to understand banchan is by general categories of ingredients and preparation. An infinite variety of banchan can be grouped into the following culinary techniques: kimchi and jangajji (fermentation and pickling), namul muchim (lightly seasoned ingredients, in particular, vegetables, roots, sprouts), bokkeum (lightly saut ed or stir fried), jorim (braised in seasoned broth or sauce), and jjim (steamed). There is also a variety of jun (thinly pan-fried savory pancakes and small meat patties) that are associated with larger feasts rather than an everyday casual meal. Three in particular will always appear, no matter how great or humble the table setting: kimchi, namul muchim and jorim.

Korea has a highly seasonal cuisine with a heavy focus on seafood, grains and vegetables. | Photo: Antonio Diaz

Kimchi

Kimchi is the traditional side dish most commonly associated with Korean cuisine. It is the national dish of Korea, with a str

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