Symphony MKII TB2 to TB3 Self Install Guide

Upgrading your Apogee Symphony MKII from TB2 to TB3: Need to Knows Upgrading your Apogee interface to Thunderbolt 3 isn't difficult - but it's not a casual five-minute job either. This guide walks you through what the installation involves and what you'll need to be successful.

Let's be clear: If your Thunderbolt 2 setup is working fine, it is not a requirement to upgrade. If you have good working cables and a Thunderbolt 2 to 3 adapter, that setup is absolutely compatible with modern Mac computers. The performance between the two is identical. This said Thunderbolt 3 can simplify life simpler if you're using newer computers, want to get rid of adapters, need to run longer optical style thunderbolt cables or are concerned long term in finding TB2 replacement cables that are no longer manufactured and thus hard to find.

If you do decide to upgrade, the key to a successful install is being methodical, organized, and a little bit handy.

TL; DR - Can I do it Myself or should I send it in? The short answer is: Yes, BUT the install does require patience, some finesse and an appropriate workspace and process for not losing parts or track of the steps. Here's what to expect. As an overview completing the install involves:

Project Outline:

Removing the top panel (14 screws)

Removing the rear panel (3 screws on bottom, 4 on the sides)

Removing the ground from the interior side panel

Disconnecting components from the rear panel:

Power Inlet

Word Clock

Cooling Fan

Transferring components to the new TB3 back panel

Removing the TB2 Option Card

Inserting the new TB3 Option Card

Reinstalling the back panel

Reconnecting quick connect cables to their appropriate places

Reaffixing bottom and side screws

Reattaching the top panel

It's not hard, but it is detailed and hands-on. If you're not confident about the process, it may be better to send in or consult Apogee support.

What You'll Need

Clean workbench or table with good lighting

Screwdrivers (Phillips #1 and small-head for tight spots)

Small tray or magnetic dish for screws

New Thunderbolt 3 card and replacement back panel

Patience

Screw breakdown by type Before you open the unit, it helps to know what types of screws you'll encounter:

Screw Type Used For Notes

Flat-head Exterior chassis (top, sides, bottom) Most common type. 14 top panel screws, 4 side screw and 3 bottom screws.

Round-head Option cards, modules, Thunderbolt card, ground wire Used for internal Thunderbolt card, ground, and securing modules or blank panels.

Specialized screws Word Clock Two unique screws: one short flat-head screw, one long threaded screw into a plastic mount.

Captive nut screws Fan Assembly 4 screws paired with small nuts; holds fan and grille guard to chassis.

Who Should (and Shouldn't) Do This This is a doable upgrade for musicians, engineers, or techs who:

Are comfortable with electronics and small screws

Are confident they will not strip screws

Have a tidy workspace and patience

It may not be for you if:

You are easily frustrated by detailed mechanical tasks

You do not have an adequate workspace for the install

There's no shame in asking for help. Those who want to update but would rather have us take care of it can request an install from Apogee Support.

Step-by-Step Guide: Thunderbolt 3 Card Installation Step 1 - Power Down and Prep

Unplug Everything: power, DB25s, optical cables, USB, etc.

Let the unit cool for 5-10 minutes.

Clear a space to lay the unit down flat. You'll need room to flip and rotate it.

Step 2 - Remove the Top Panel

Unscrew the 14 flat-head screws securing the top.

Set them aside - you'll reuse them during reassembly.

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Step 3 - Remove the Rear Panel Screws If you have modules or an option card (like Dante, Pro Tools, or Pro Tools Plus), you do not need to remove them from the chassis.

However, you do need to remove the round-head screws that secure these cards or blanks to the rear panel.

The option cards and modules remain mechanically and electrically connected to the internal board.

Step 4 - Remove the Rear Panel For the rear panel to separate from the chassis, remove the following screws:

Two screws per side from the side panels

Three screws from the bottom panel

One screw securing the ground wire to the side panel

Carefully pull the panel away from the chassis

Pro Tip: If you're unsure whether your panel is free, gently tug - nothing should resist. If it does, check for missed screws.

Important: Do not let the rear panel hang. Cables to the fan, word clock, and power inlet are still attached. Support the panel with one hand or rest it on a softy against the chassis during the next step.

alt= class=wp-image-291703 data-lazy-srcset=https://apogeedigital.com/app/uploads/2025/11/Screen-Shot-2025-11-07-at-10.26.24-AM-1030x581.png 1030w, https://apogeedigital.com/app/uploads/2025/11/Screen-Shot-2025-11-07-at-10.26.24-AM-300x169.png 300w, https://apogeedigital.com/ap

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